DON'T REPLACE YOUR WORKING SENSOR WITH A NEW ONE JUST BECAUSE IT LEAKS OIL. SAVE $$ BY REPLACING JUST ITS O-RING. READ THIS ENTIRE DESCRIPTION...YOU'LL BE GLAD YOU DID.
(I'm sorry. EBay just raised fees AGAIN and I had to raise the price by 15 cents to offset their increased take. Realize that in the 45 US States that charge sales tax, 20-32.5% of what you pay goes to eBay fees and sales tax.)
REUSE YOUR HI QUALITY LONG-LIFE GM / AC DELCO / DELPHI original OEM sensor. DON'T THROW IT AWAY (they're expensive) and replace it with aftermarket junk sensors that don't work or fail quick because you can't find a new GM/AC Delco/Delphi sensor (or don't want to pay their premium price). GM supply chains are badly broken by covid and spare part sensors are in short supply. RockAuto doesn't have ACD spares, nor 1A or others. Even if you do find one, it'll be FAR FAR MORE EXPENSIVE than these o-rings or any aftermarket junk sensors. Don't do the job twice because you threw away your leaky but working hi-quality OEM sensor and replaced it with a cheap aftermarket part.
This is a BRAND NEW, SPECIALTY SIZE & MATERIAL O-RING fitting both the Camshaft and Crankshaft Position Sensors for GM 4.8L 5.3L 5.7L and 6.0L engines 1997-2009 (see picture for more details) [fits 5.7L LS1 engine, not the older 5.7L LT1 having coolant flow thru the intake manifold]. They may fit other GM engines & years too...look at the GM and AC Delco part #'s shown in the picture for the GM / ACD sensor part #'s these rings fit.
OEM sensors rarely fail…except for aggravating OIL LEAKAGE which is extremely common. These two sensors are the most frequent causes of oil dripping on your driveway. If you see oil drips on the bottom of the starter motor (especially the starter motor bolts) that’s from a leaky crank sensor. If you see oil dripping between engine and tranny or coming out the end edge of the bell housing (or open the bell housing view shield and look for or swipe your finger and detect engine oil), that’s most likely from a leaky camshaft sensor (don't despair...odds are it's NOT the rear main seal. I learned this the hard way, pulling the engine only to see the leak was coming from the darn cam sensor....the lesson: it's HUGELY cheaper and easier and faster to try replacing these o-rings to see if they fix your leak off the bell housing...before going after the rear main seal)
The O-rings the factory used most often, that are ALL prone to this failure, are BLUE. They leak oil because they deform and flatten, causing seal failure. They are a softer material than these brown rings (durometer 70 instead of 75). Also, the cord dimension (thickness) of the blue rings is .01" thinnner than these brown rings (making their diameter .02" smaller) [these numbers from manufacturer specs]. Because the blue ones are softer and slightly too small, they fail routinely and early. It's why every GM 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L and 6.0L ("LS") engine starts leaking oil out these sensors early in life. The factory used the blue ones likely because they are cheaper. The slightly harder material of these brown rings, plus their slightly larger dimensions (along with superior material temperature tolerance), combine to give a much better, tighter, longer lasting seal. You can feel the difference when you install it.
Now you might consider just buying a complete new, real cheap AFTERMARKET sensor. BUT....These sensors are difficult to get to, and to avoid doing the whole repair over again let me warn: run away from cheap AFTERMARKET sensors (non-GM/ACD/Delphi). Why take the chance if your leaky sensor was working fine and all it needs is an o-ring? Ever done the difficult GM knock sensor replacement using cheaper aftermarket sensors, only to have them fail immediately? Happens nearly every time aftermarket knock sensors are used. Notorious for this. Big troublesome job you get to do all over again. Well, just as with GM knock sensors, GM PCU’s are very sensitive to electrical signal characteristics coming from these two shaft sensors. Many aftermarket CAM/CRANK sensors will trigger the “Check Engine Light”. Look at eBay "product reviews" for many of the cheap aftermarket sensors and you'll see frequent complaints they didn't work or failed quickly. Look at the feedback and rating posts for these o-ring ads I've place and see people who suffered this exact experience....also see posts from experienced certified mechanics warning of how darn "picky" LS engines are with any sensors associated with ignition timing (cam & crank position and knock). To avoid doing the whole dang repair over again, it’s best to use original GM, AC Delco, or Delphi OEM sensors, which are much higher quality and hence much more expensive than aftermarket. BUT if your sensors are working yet just leaking, it’s cheaper by-far to simply reuse your high-quality, super long-life sensors and just replace their O-rings with these higher quality, tighter fitting rings.
It’s aggravating GM DIDN’T SETUP A PART# for this O-ring. They want you to buy entire sensors. GM doesn’t offer (nor does anyone else) a replacement 0-ring. And to make matters more difficult, GM used a NON-STANDARD SPECIALTY SIZE 0-RING! O-ring sizes are universally defined by a standardized “DASH” specification, but no standard DASH size in that spec will fit these sensors. If you mistakenly try using the closest standard DASH size (the size you may read about on the internet), your engine will leak like JULIAN ASSANGE! And on top of the frustrating difficulty of finding the proper size, there’s also the difficulty of finding a reliable material that’s both high-temperature and oil tolerant. These O-rings are a perfect fit and material, and seal better than the factory original blue rings…GUARANTEED.
If only one of your sensors is leaking, the other isn't far behind, so it's best to buy two (see my other eBay ads for a pair of these o-rings at slightly cheaper price-per-ring item #'s: 173910743201 and 173974101288)
[Buy before February 14, 2025 because eBay will be raising their final value fee (AGAIN) from 13.25% to 13.6%. This is a 2.64% increase. This follows their March 15, 2024 increase of their per-order fee from $0.30 to $0,40 (for a $10 item, $0.40 is 4%,), and their increases of Feb. 2023 from 12.9% to 13.25%, and March 2022 from 12.55% to 12.9%. eBay's total fees are now AT LEAST 17.6% for low priced items like this. AND....less known too is that they also apply their 13.6% fee rate to any/all sales tax they collect from you. Rolling all this up, in 45 US states that have sales tax, the result is that for low priced items like this, eBay's "take" ends up between 18%-19% of the total (item + ship) cost. Also realize, State + local sales taxes range from 2-13.5% among the 45 US States that charge sales tax. So in those states, 20-32.95% of what you pay goes for Ebay fees and taxes. Thank you. ]