Hop Rhizomes - Cascade, Columbus, Glacier, Nugget, Chinook, Mt. Hood and more

 We are a small California hopyard that started in 2010 - (Hip Hops Inc.).  We were certified organic for the first 4 years (C.C.O.F).  I still use most of the same organic fertilizers.  No pesticides or fungicides are ever used!  We now sell rhizomes & plants to the general public.  All the irrigation water I use is reclaimed water from well water used for other crop land.  I dig up the plants fresh from the field as they sell all year.  I work out the shipping options so they are usually only in the mail 2 or 3 days (95% of the time).  Sometimes they take 4 days (5% of the time).  This is so the plants & rhizomes do not dry out & die in shipping.  I have tons of experience growing these plants (long before deciding to go commercial & starting a business) so feel free to send me questions.  Most U.S. varieties do not mind the heat (do well even in 100 + degrees with lots of water).  A few U.S. varieties do not like the extreme heat (95 + degrees), like Centennial & Willamette.  These 2 will grow but will stop flowering when the high heat arrives.  Most European varieties will struggle a bit in high heat (95 +) and will produce low amounts of flowers or may not flower at all in super high heat (100 +).  If you have cold winters but plant this year & can let them get established for at least 1 or 2 weeks before the cold comes (60 degrees and below), then they will survive the winter.  If your lows never get below 25 degrees in the winter then you can plant anytime.  Make sure you still water occasionally if you do not get rain.  You will not get flowers this year but you will have plants that will be large for the start early next year & a good harvest next year.  If your daytime highs never get lower than 60s then you can plant & grow anytime.  Most areas do not have a winter too low for these plant to survive once established for a year (can go down to - 20 degrees).  They flower more with at least some below freezing temps.  This triggers the full life cycle & more growth/flowers.  Keep these rhizomes in the refrigerator as soon as you get them.  Plant then within a month of getting them and you will see good viable growth.   Stock only stays in my refrigerators for 1 month and if it has not sold then it gets planted in my hop yard.  I find the best luck w/ planting rhizomes if you plant them so the new, white growth nodes are about 1 inch. below the surface.  This may mean that you put the main rhizome mass deeper than 1 inch below.  If you have started, green bines (vines) on your rhizome cutting then these can be sticking above the ground.  Plant the rhizomes horizontally in the dirt for best results.  Water them often for the 1st month.  Do not let the topsoil get dry.  If you are starting rhizomes in high heat areas & times (like 100 degrees for example), you will probably need to water every day, maybe twice a day.  If you are in an area that gets good rain & warm temps. (75-90 degrees) at the same time, you will need to look out for 3 main mildew/mold issues:  Downey Mildew (serious), Powdery Mildew, & Vericillium Wilt.   Do not grow hops in a pot/container as a permanent location.  The roots grow very large and will most likely out grow your container very quickly.   Do not try and store the roots in the refrig. for too long (after 3 months you will only get about 40% of them that are still viable and sprout).  Fresh is best.  I almost sell all year around (stop for a little bit in Jan.).  One can plant indoors or greenhouse to get them started then put in the ground once spring arrives & temps. get warm again .  The root base will be large when the spring arrives and you can plant them in the ground with a good size and a head start.  If you live in warmer areas this will give you a small amount of flower the 1st year.